Not so long ago a gourmet vegetarian experience meant little more than a watery bowl of lentil soup and stodgy slice of nut loaf, knocked up by a hairy chap wearing a colourful hand-made sweater.

But with more people forsaking a meat-based diet, bright new vegetarian restaurants such as Sibila’s are springing up all over.

Concealed amid the plush canalside apartments and shops in the regenerated heart of Birmingham, Sibila’s (named after Sibila Strazicic- Cincotti, its Croatian-Italian female chef) is part of the Body and Being spa and treatment centre.

With its bright lights, clean lines and functional furniture, it has a hint of a health centre waiting room, but what it lacks in atmosphere it more than makes up for with big flavours and superb cooking.

A “lite bites” menu served from 11am includes sandwiches, soups and tortilla wraps, with many of the dishes vegan, gluten-free or organic. The main menu weighs in with substantial starters such as figs and tangy tofu, and main dishes like Thai sweet potato boats topped with avocado and tofu concassé.

My wild mushroom and chestnut casserole was similar to a veggie beef bourguignon. And so dark, rich and comforting I forgot the chunky slices of mushroom weren’t pieces of meat. In a city of stressful road systems Sibila’s is an oasis of calm and a place that’s as good for the stomach as it is the soul.

SAMPLE MENU

Thai banana soup, £3.30; sweet and sour aubergines, £4.10; wild mushroom and chestnut casserole, £8.40

Sibila’s, Canal Square, Browning Street, Birmingham B16 8EH 0121 456 7634