Email Tim with your questions
Hi, My 1999 tdi Chrysler Voyager keeps cutting out randomly while driving.
It can drive great for a week and then cut out twice in one day or cut out
once every day. There does not seem any pattern to it. I've had filters
changed, tank emptied and cleaned. A diagnostics has come back with around 6
possibilities, from electrical to fuel pump. To narrow it down is more
diagnostics but it feels that I'm just throwing money at it randomly. Any
suggestions. Once the car’s engine cuts out and I come to a halt, I switch
the ignition off and then switch back on and start first time?
Jay Olney, Coventry, UK
The six possibilities would be a useful start point, but you can eliminate
some areas as unlikely causes. If it starts up again straight away, it
probably isn’t an air leak in the fuel system, and it doesn’t sound like the
fuel pump – either of these would probably make it quite difficult to
re-start. I would have suggested rubbish in the tank, but since that’s been
cleaned, it’s ruled out. An electrical problem seems the most likely given
the symptoms – a poor connection somewhere that is failing due to vibration.
They can be horribly difficult to track down, but look at the circuits
associated with the faults the diagnostic check has identified. Remember
that when the diagnostic check identifies a problem with a component, it’s
not necessarily the component itself that’s faulty, it could simply be the
wiring and connectors associated with it. If that doesn’t reveal any
problems, think about what work has been done over the past year and what
might have been disconnected to do it. Then check all those connectors.
Please could you settle an argument between my wife and me. I tell her off
for turning the heating on as soon as we set off in our 06 VW Passat on cold
mornings. I suggest it's advisable to allow the engine to reach it's optimum
temperature, but she argues this is no longer the case with modern cars. Is
it also the case that diesel cars take even longer to reach their optimum
temperature?
Many thanks.
Simon Heckford, Bristol, UK
The car’s heater is a radiator, called a matrix, with a fan to blow air
through it and into the cabin of the car. The engine coolant circulates
through the matrix, so blowing cold air through it will cool the engine and
prolong the warm up period. Some handbooks tell you not to use the heater on
maximum until the engine has warmed up, but it really won’t be a huge
difference – not grounds for a divorce anyway. Your wife is right in the
sense that modern cars are designed to warm up very quickly so they spend
most of their time at their most efficient temperature. If you want to
compromise in the interests of marital bliss, set the heater to the
recirculation position until the engine temperature is normal, then at least
you’re not blowing freezing cold outside air through the matrix. Don’t
forget to set it back to the fresh air position again though, otherwise
you’ll get steamy windows. Diesel cars will generally take a bit longer to
warm up because there’s usually more coolant, more metal and they’re more
efficient, so there is less waste heat. Some cars, especially diesel MPVs,
have auxiliary heaters which help warm up the cabin space.
I have a Nissan Primera 2000 S model. I recently had an O2 senor replaced.
After that my car would not rev up. The engine starts but I have no power to
move. What is the cause of this fault?
Name and Address withheld
There isn’t really enough information to be specific here, but you should
start by considering what prompted you to have the oxygen sensor changed in
the first place. Were there some symptoms or did the car just fail the MOT
test on emissions? I presume it wasn’t done in a garage, otherwise you
should simply leave it with them to sort out. Typical reasons for not
revving up range from fuel starvation to a blocked exhaust (or disintegrated
catalytic converter) to EGR failure to inlet air leaks – and lots more bits
in between. If you’re not terribly technical, check that all the pipes and
hoses are intact and fitted properly – including all the engine breather
hoses. If there’s nothing obvious after that, get the car into a garage.
I have an MG ZT - 1.8 ltr - 160bhp version. It is 3 years old, with 30K
miles on the speedo. I have owned it for a year. When I accelerate hard, the
turbo cuts in, then out, then in/out 3 or 4 times, with very hard jerks each
time. I am not very knowledgeable mechanically, and would like to hear what
ideas you have as to the cause.
Friends have suggested that it is an air leak on the 'pipe coming out of
the plenum chamber', or just a turbo problem. Any suggestions as to what the
problem may be, and how to fix it would be gratefully received.
George Pye, Oakley, UK
This is more likely to be a problem with the turbo waste gate valve or a
misfire under load caused by a faulty spark plug. An air leak wouldn’t cut
in and out, neither would a faulty turbo. Check the plugs to start with –
they’re long service units so aren’t due for change yet, but one could be
breaking down. The turbo waste gate is a bit like a safety valve – when you
have all the boost pressure the engine needs, the valve opens to let the
surplus boost escape. A faulty valve can open and close at too low a
pressure, giving the impression of the turbo cutting in and out.
Audi TT and the 'left hand pull' mystery!!
For quite a few months now I've had my car in with the Audi dealers trying
to sort out a left pull on the car. The car is a 55 Reg, 225bhp with
Macpherson suspension. (This has been going on since new, however they have
kept trying to tell me that the car is fine - I'm still not happy with the
drive of the car - I had a previous TT before this one and it drove
straight, funnily enough....Anyhow - I drone on..) They have done all sorts
of geo checks, mentioned it was out of spec, pulled it within spec, and have
even called second line support i.e the audi technical gurus - to try and
ask why the left pull may still be happening even with the geo spec looking
OK. Nothing really changes with the drive of the car. I've got to the stage
now where I'm in stalemate. They are now saying it's fine (this was after
they straightened my steering wheel out from tipping a few minutes
clockwise), I still feel it pulls to the left - and since my wheel has been
straightened I swear it now drives to the right when the wheel is held
straight. To add further insult, the dealers are now asking me questions
like - do you really like this car?..you've not been happy with it from new
have you?...are you sure that whatever we do you would still believe there
is a problem?....
They advise that all cars (especially with thicker wheels) move towards the
camber of the road i.e the left, and are even trying to say that Jeremy
Clarkson was talking about a left hand torque happening with cars!! So
therefore the car drives normally.
(I don't have to put my foot down for the left hand pull to happen!!).
What I really need to prove this, is a runway. However, as I've not got one
of those handy, I should be grateful if you would be able to offer any
advice you may have re this matter. Or, if indeed other TT drivers have
wrote to you with the same issue?
I guess I just need any news you may have on this subject which may assist
me with keeping sanity of mind...or alternatively be convinced that all cars
drive to the left nowadays, and it's normal.
Yours in anticipation,
Sandra, Manchester, UK
Cars pulling to the left or right can be tricky. Lots of cars will have a
slight tendency to drift to one side or the other is you let go of the
steering wheel. The problem is defining when the pull is bad enough to be a
problem – and then convincing a sceptical dealer that it’s a problem and not
your imagination. In your case, I think the dealer should bear in mind the
fact that you’ve already had a similar car, so you know the characteristics
and that you obviously understand the torque steer business because you say
that you don’t have to put your foot down for the left hand pull to happen,
so they shouldn’t try to fob you off with that one. Although it is true that
wider tyres will accentuate any tendency for a car to follow the camber of
the road, it’s not something that should need a conscious effort to correct.
The dealer seems to have tried most of the obvious things, but you don’t
mention that the tyres have been swapped round. Tyres can have a bias to one
side or the other – a fact either not known or overlooked by many garages,
and if they do cure it, it’s usually by accident. Give it a try – but you
might encounter even more scepticism from the dealer. If so, you might want
to know more about the tyre bias – click
here for an explanation
I am considering taking my 2007 VW Golf GT diesel to tour France /
Switzerland. However it has gas discharge headlamps fitted and I am unsure
as to how to make them acceptable for driving on the right. Talking with my
dealer raised concerns re the normal stickers "welding" to the headlamp
covers plus the absence of positioning marks on the covers. Any guidance
would be appreciated.
Name and address withheld
The stickers are not suitable for gas discharge (or Xenon) headlamps. Any car
fitted with these will have a means for adjusting the aim of the beams.
Sometimes it’s simply a lever you switch over on the light unit itself, but
I’m afraid your Golf has to be adjusted by the dealer, using their
diagnostic machine. It is a little concerning that the dealer doesn’t know
this – perhaps you should look for a new dealer to do the conversion. Don’t
forget to have them changed back when you return to these shores, and don’t
leave it until the last minute to book the car in for the conversion to be
done – it only takes a few minutes, but you don’t want to be told on the
morning of your departure that they can’t touch your car until Tuesday week!
Hi there I just bought a Nissan Premera 20i GX Patrol automatic. It’s on T
reg. Unfortunately it’s really really heavy on fuel to say it gives me about
15 miles per gallon. Can you tell me what shall I do to make it better.
Thankyou.
Shah, Rochdale, UK
Automatics can be heavy on fuel, especially in town on short journeys.
However, it sounds as if it’s much worse than your previous car for the same
type of driving, so first check the air filter, then get an emissions check
– it could be the oxygen sensor or something else in the fuel management
system. Make sure the brakes aren’t binding by trying to push the car on a
level surface (have someone inside it to apply the brakes if it does start
to roll).
Hi Tim,
My '91 Senator is in fantastic condition, no rust and still as smooth and
powerful as a newish one. Unfortunately the Power Steering is quite stiff
and also sometimes goes very light when it wants to. I have had a "new"
second hand pump fitted but this has made no difference. Obviously a brand
new pump would probably cost more than the car is worth!
The Vauxhall handbook states the steering is speed sensitive, could it be a
sensor somewhere that is faulty? Any help most appreciated as my arms are
getting quite muscular now!
Naomi Morgan, Gloucester, UK
It seems that the valves on the steering box are sticking (it is a box, not a
rack) Try a reconditioned box, or if the budget doesn’t permit that, a
second-hand unit. There are the usual online brokers (1st choice spares etc)
or e-bay has at least one specialist in Senator and Monza second hand parts.
Why does the speedo on my Isuzu trooper diesel SWB1992 work for short
period then stop?
Ron Dale, Mansfield, UK
This has an electronic speed sensor, so check the wiring and connectors
between the speedo head and the sensor. If it is all in good order, it is
either the sensor or the speedo itself.
I have a July 07 Kia Sedona. I have had two batteries fitted and each time
I leave the car for 6 / 7 days without use, the battery is flat. RAC can
only say it isn’t holding the charge. Is this a problem with this car?
Ina Crone, Moreton, UK
It is a sad reflection on the motor trade in general that this question comes
up so often. A similar problem appeared in December’s questions and it’s
come up quite regularly over the years – but it should be one of the easiest
things to diagnose. It seems remarkable that so many people can make a
living out of working on cars and yet apparently know so little about them!
The system could not be much simpler. The battery is like a bucket full of
electricity. When you turn stuff on, the electricity drains out. When the
engine is running, the alternator fills it up again. There are only three
possible problems – the battery is faulty, the electricity is leaking out
when everything should be switched off, or the alternator isn’t filling it
up again. Let’s take them in turn.
First, the battery could be faulty. Unlikely in your case, since it has been
replaced twice.
Second, the electricity might be draining out when you think everything is
turned off. This is the most common problem and is the most likely cause of
your troubles. It is very easy to check, and you can do it yourself if you
have a suitable ammeter and a basic knowledge of electrical circuits. Turn
everything off. Connect an ammeter so that it measures the current flowing
from the battery, Lock the car as you would normally and look at the reading
on the ammeter. The alarm will drain a small amount, but this should be 0.1
amp or less, usually around 0.06 amps. If it is more than this, a switch or
relay may be stuck in the “on” position. The easiest way to isolate the
circuit causing the problem is to leave the ammeter in place and remove the
fuses one at a time. When you remove the fuse from the problem circuit the
reading will drop to 0.1 amps or below. Then do a bit of fault finding on
that circuit. (Note: You will need an ammeter suitable for checking cars –
ideally a clip on unit that works by induction, but a conventional type will
do just as well. It should measure up to a minimum of 10 amps, and make sure
it is removed from the circuit before anything is switched on. Since you
will have to disconnect he battery to connect it in place, make sure you
know any radio codes or other electronically stored information.)
Finally, the alternator might not be charging the battery properly (filling it
back up with electricity). This is not as likely as the last one, but still
possible, even if the charge warning light isn’t lit. Again, it is easy to
check, with either with a clip on ammeter or with a voltmeter, but you can
do a quick check with nothing more than your ears. Start the engine and let
it idle, then immediately turn on the heated rear window, headlights and
switch the heater blower to full speed. Let the engine idle for a few
moments and listen to the note of the heater. Then increase the engine speed
gently to about 2,000 rpm and keep listening to the heater motor. The
alternator output is quite low when the engine’s but rises quickly to full
output as the engine speed builds up. If you hear the heater motor speed up
a little as the engine speed rises, that is evidence of the alternator
output building up and you can be pretty certain that it’s working properly.
(I was going to suggest that if you have no technical knowledge, don’t try
this yourself, but on the other hand, that doesn’t seem to deter lots of
people in the garage trade…)
I am a student at Durham University and this summer I plan to do my Geology
Dissertation in a remote area of Northern Spain. However, I have a problem
in that my car insurance provider will not insure me as I will not be over
25. I am wondering if you know if there is any way that I drive my car to
Spain in June or if you have any other suggestions? I will be 20 and drive a
2002, 1.2 Renault Clio.
Jane Flack, Huddersfield, UK
Ring round the brokers – try confused.com or moneysupermarket.com for a
variety of quotes, or try the specialists. Don’t forget that some insurers
don’t quote through the brokers – notably Direct Line and Tesco, so you
might want to ring them direct. You might also think about how much you need
a car for the full stay – it could be cheaper to rent one for just the time
you need it, and many rental companies are happy provided you have a full
licence.
I encountered a similar problem with my engine cutting out shortly after starting the car. The problem was diagnosed as a dirty air-flow meter, unfortunately, it is a sealed unit and can't be taken apart for cleaning, it can only be replaced. However, as a short term cure I discovered giving the meter a tap with a rubber mallet dislodged the dirt on the sensor inside and relieved the problem, usually for two or three weeks. I kept the car running like this for a year before eventually coughing up the £200+ that Ford wanted to replace the meter.
Andrew Bell, Sheffield,
We had a similar cutting out problem on our 1997 Seat Ibiza. Rooting round the web found it to be common on VW Golfs and usually involved paying dealers loads of loot to fail to fix the problem. Eventually we found a cheap solution which worked: replace the air filter, lubricate the butterfly valve on the air intake and replace the short air breather hose beneath the air filter. Total cost £35 and 3 years later the problem has not recurred.
Paul Barnard, Cromer,
For Sandra & the left-pulling TT; I had a TT for nearly 5 years, & mine pulled a bit to the left too. It was annoying, but after one attempt at the dealer, I just put up with it, & looked forward to our annual holiday to France, where the car would drive straight (opposite camber). However, a new set of tyres did the trick. No adjustment of suspension, no changing of toe-in angles, etc. (One of) the original tyres was the cause all along.
And then I sold the car & bought a Z4 Coupe - but that's another story.
RobC, Burton Latimer, UK
A car as recent as an 06 Passat should be at least as "intelligent" as my 1998 Mitsubishi Galant, which won't allow the heater to heat the interior unless it has traveeld for a couple of miles to heat the coolant up. Then it'll start heating the interior, and properly , too. That said, I had one of these Norwegian electrical preheaters fitted, which plugs into a socket and starts prehwarming the coolant and the car's interior via a small blower according to the timer setting. Since then: warm and cosy after the frostiest of nights - plus no more cold starts, which greatly benefits the moving parts involved.
KD Baetz, Coburg, Saxe-Coburg
Jane Flack in Huddersfield should check out Abbeygate Insurance, who operate out of Gib and also have an office in Cadiz in South Spain. I live in Portugal and wander all over Europe in my old Honda and they are just the job, also including breakdown cover and rental car replacement for 3 days as wellas 3 months in the UK. Good service with the breakdown cover (I've used it once or twice in my half a million miles) and good prices too!
Dave, Coimbra, Portugal