We stay in hotels for all sorts of reasons: for striking settings and
architectural splendour, for chic interiors and gorgeous gardens, for room
in which to roam. What we may not twig, though, is that all these pleasures
can now be enjoyed by going self-catering — and often at a smidgen of the
cost.
It was the Landmark Trust that first changed our idea of what a holiday home
could be. Forty years ago this month, the charity began restoring ruins that
weren’t quite grand enough to get themselves saved by the National Trust. To
help fund their upkeep, Landmark let out its properties for short breaks,
and introduced a generation of self-caterers to the joys of our
architectural heritage. A medieval priory, a neoclassical folly, a coastal
fort — all yours for the weekend.
Nowadays, the Vivat Trust is at it too, and the National Trust has set up a
cottage-holiday wing. So that’s the history angle sorted — and then along
came the revolution in interior design. Out went the candlewick bedspreads,
the lino in the kitchen and the shillings in the meter. In their place came
furniture and fittings that would pep up any five-star hotel.
If you haven’t done a DIY holiday in the British Isles for a while, you’re in
for a treat. You can find places to stay that add a real jolt of excitement
to your trip. They may have golden strands or bracing hilltops on the
doorstep but, each morning, you’re going to find it hard to leave.
Here, our writers choose their 15 favourites, old and new, including three
star properties from the Landmark Trust.
1. Fisherman's Cottages, Inverness-shire
Sleeps 6 in each cottage (one double, two twins)
Designed by the Vogue writer turned lady of the manor Isabella Cawdor, each of
these seven cottages is Highland hunting lodge meets Notting Hill boutique.
Dotted around the Cawdor estate’s 60,000 acres of heather-quilted moorland,
they are a just-right, old-money blend of the fancy and the unfussed. Built
in 2002, the estate looks as if it has been here for ever. Nina Campbell
fabrics and wrought-iron bedsteads sit alongside faded claret rugs and a
vast fireside sofa that’s just aching to do your back in. All comfy rather
than plush, the cottages are ideal for those with landed-gentry leanings.
On arrival, you’ll find a welcome hamper, a TV and video, massages on request
— and (if you’re feeling really lazy) lovely home-cooked meals. And the lack
of a garden matters less when you’ve a 60,000-acre Highland moor to play
with. Cawdor Castle is the obvious nearby draw, though the beaches between
Inverness and Nairn are equally spectacular. That’s if you make it off the
estate: and with some of the best game-fishing, shooting, riding and walking
anywhere in the world, this may never occur.
We liked it for: the setting, right on the swirling, peaty
shores of the Findhorn River.
But: you’re a 20-minute drive from the nearest anything —
social butterflies needn’t apply.
The details: a week starts at £500, three nights at £300. No
pets — they might scare the grouse. Call 01667 402402 or visit www.cawdor.com.
Jeremy Lazell
2 Fallowvee Cottage, County Atrim
Sleeps 4 (one double, one twin)
This lovingly renovated,would-be Cycladic white cottage near Watersfoot, on
the northeast coast of Northern Ireland, was historically part of Lady
Londonderry’s estate. Petite and pretty, it has a lounge-cum-dining room
with an open fire (peat provided). Like the bedrooms, it was recently
treated to a makeover. There’s a shingle terrace beside the water for
alfresco eating — effectively a private beach with a grassed-over former
jetty — and on a clear day, you can see all the way to Scotland. This is
rural Ireland, and the nearest thing to a night out in nearby Watersfoot is
the licensed fish-and-chip restaurant, but there are pubs and cafes in
Cushendall and Cashendun. The Glengariff Forest Park is a 15-minute drive
away.
We liked it for: the homely interiors and the romantic
after-dark flash of the Mull of Kintyre lighthouse.
But: the main A2 coast road runs outside the door (don’t
worry, the double glazing is a good soundproofer).
The details: a week starts at £295, three days at £150. Pets
allowed. Call Rural Cottage Holidays on 028 9044 1535 or visit
www.cottagesinireland.com.
Bryn Frank
3. Beacon Hill Farm, Northumberland
Sleeps 2-7, depending on the cottage
These 12 super-comfortable cottages sit on the soft summit of a hill at
Longhorsley, between the coast and the Cheviots. Some are conversions, some
are new-built in farmhouse style — and all have picture-window lounges and
the run of the farm, with its woods, lake and nature reserve. Inside you’ll
find original paintings, lots of books, big televisions and DVD and CD
players. Beacon Hill also has its own health club, with a 40ft heated indoor
pool, a gym, a sauna, a hot tub, a steam room and beauty treatments from the
in-house therapist. For children, it offers a games room, an adventure
playground and a trampoline. There are horses, too — for experienced riders.
It’s the perfect cottage for castle-lovers: Bamburgh, Alnwick and
Dunstanburgh are all nearby. Other attractions include Cragside and
Wallington Hall (both National Trust), as well as empty beaches and
Hadrian’s Wall.
We liked it for: its chatty owner, its cosiness and the
top-of-the-world views.
But: the decor is a tad old- fashioned.
The details: a week starts at £255, a winter short break at
£215. No pets allowed. Call 01670 788372 or visit www.beaconhill.co.uk.
David Wickers
4. Mill At Rutter Falls, Cumbria
Sleeps 4 (two doubles)
Lost at the end of the road, beside the river and smack next to a mini
Niagara, this is a country cottage with a difference. The 19th-century
paddle wheel no longer functions, but the falls, fed by three becks, are
usually in full, tumbling glory. The house, which used to belong to an
artist, has a striking open-plan design spread across two loft-like floors.
The main bedroom has huge white drapes separating its bed and Victorian
bath, and a balcony overlooking the falls. Downstairs are the kitchen/diner
and a pull-down bed. As well as Sky TV, a DVD player and a hi-fi, it has a
small garden and a private riverbank where you can watch red squirrels and
dippers: a mini nature reserve. The mill is in the Eden Valley, near the
Georgian market town of Appleby, a gorgeous pocket of Cumbria that gets a
small fraction of the visitors who descend on the Lakes.
We liked it for: designer looks, a romantic location and your
very own falls, floodlit at night.
But: the relentless whoosh of water could drive some barmy.
The details: a week starts at £480. No pets; no children
under 12. Call 01768 353243 or visit www.rutterfalls.com. DW
5. The Chorister's House, North Yorkshire
Sleeps 10 (three doubles, two twins)
Chorister’s is one of six rental houses on the National Trust’s Fountains
Estate, adrift in 400 acres of deer park atop a mile-long drive. It is
stone-built, and furnished to match William Burges’s 1870s design, with
squashy sofas and lots of antique furniture, but comes with 21st-century mod
cons. Nearby, on the banks of the River Skell, stands Fountains Abbey, the
mightiest monastic ruin in Europe. It’s the dramatic focal point of
landscaped Studley Royal, famous for its water gardens, ornamental temples
and follies. Not enough for you? Ripon, with the largest cathedral in
Britain, is a few minutes’ drive away.
We liked it for: the lawns, trees and deer on every side.
But: by day, trippers roam, and the small garden lacks
privacy.
The details: a week starts at £648. No pets allowed. Call
0870 458 4422 or visit www.nationaltrustcottages.co.uk.
DW
6. North Lees Hall, Derbyshire
Sleeps 4 in one apartment and 2 in another
This is like staying in your own thumb-sized castle: a restored “tower house”
from the 1590s, complete with 3ft-thick walls and a battlemented parapet.
North Lees’s claim to fame, though, is as the model for Thornfield Hall,
home of Mr Rochester in Jane Eyre. Thrillingly, Charlotte Brontë’s
description of the house is still bang on today — though the Vivat Trust
hasn’t got round to hiring a madwoman for the attic. The set-piece “state
rooms” have museum-quality fireplaces and four-posters hung with authentic
Elizabethan drapery. When the sun shines, the wide, mullioned windows turn
the house into a light-filled lantern, suspended above the most delectable
Derbyshire dale. The ramparts of Stanage Edge buttress the near horizon,
promising some of the breeziest walks and biggest panoramas in the Peak. If
it rains, you can tour the show caves at Castleton, excavate English history
at Chatsworth House or dig into the menu at the Miners Arms in Eyam: the
best meals for miles.
We liked it for: being Britain’s most romantic literary
hideaway — and not just because of the Brontë connection. The views will
make you swoon.
But: don’t expect a garden.
The details: a week starts at £485 for two, or £620 for four;
three nights (off-season only) at £265/£340. No pets. Call 0845 090 0194 or
visit www.vivat.org.uk.
Vincent Crump
7. Trevor Hall, Derbyshire
Sleeps 12 (six doubles)
From the outside this is a Grade I-listed Georgian mansion in 85 acres above
the River Dee; from the inside, it’s a spacious playground specialising in
unbuttoned grandeur. The decor is what you might call eclectic, including a
Chinese-inspired bedroom with a four-poster bed, and a white bathroom
watched over by a Dalek. The Regency salon doubles as a cinema, and Trevor
Hall has a billiard room and a music room (with instruments). There’s even a
chapel — it’s ideal for a wedding. The house is near Llangollen, and all its
bedrooms overlook the valley — full of appeal for walkers, with the Offa’s
Dyke path cutting right through the grounds. There are great trails for
cycles, motorbikes and horses, too. If you must go further, Chester,
Snowdonia and Alton Towers are well within day-trip range.
We liked it for: the fact that everything’s laid on,
including a daily maid service (cleaning for 12 is no kind of holiday) and
the option of a shopping and/or cooking service.
But: smokers are confined to the smoking room.
The details: £2,750 for a week, £2,255 for Friday-Monday
stays. Pets £15 per week extra. Call Stately Holiday Homes on 01638 674749
or visit www.statelyholidayhomes.co.uk.
Anthony Sattin
8. Cliff Barns, Norfolk
Sleeps 18 (six doubles and a “bunkhouse” for six)
The combined talents of its designer owners have transformed this 19th-century
barn at Narborough into a chic palace of fun and frivolity, quirkiness and
opulence. “Rancho Deluxe” is how they like to describe it, reflecting the
fusion of dude ranch and hacienda, but there’s a whiff of baronial castle
for good measure — as well as Aztec rugs and cowhide sofas, expect hunting
trophies, chandeliers and plenty of flickering candlelight. The trimmings
are impecc-able: a spankingly well-equipped kitchen, complete with a Falcon
Dominator range and floor-to-ceiling windows; a dedicated DVD/hi-fi room;
and a cavernous sitting room, with a big, boulder-built fireplace, that
opens (via a folding glass wall) onto a courtyard equipped with a Spanish
fountain, a hot tub, a sauna and a barbecue. The North Norfolk coast is 45
minutes away. and Cliff Barns comes with a stilted beach hut for guest use
at Hunstanton. Riding, fishing, shooting and golf are also on tap nearby.
We liked it for: the sheer exuberance of the design.
But: there are neighbours (though out of sight of the rooms
and courtyard), and the views are nothing to sing about.
The details: a week starts at £3,750, a weekend at £2,550.
Pets allowed. Call 01366 328342 or visit www.cliffbarns.com.
DW
9. Admiral's Mews, Pembrokeshire
Sleeps 2-14, depending on the cottage
New and natty, this little nest of luxury cottages on a clifftop above
Saundersfoot village is furnished in swish, contemporary fashion, with
halogen lights, parquet flooring and all-round open-plan style. It’s not
quite Cliff Barns, but the kitchens are well equipped, the bedrooms come
with hairdryers and bathrobes, and sitting rooms have widescreen tele-
visions, video and DVD players. The living quarters are upstairs, with
picture windows and a roof terrace or balcony — a brilliant touch that makes
the most of views over Carmarthen Bay. Saundersfoot has a big Blue Flag
beach, a small harbour and plenty of good eating. The walled town of Tenby
is a short drive away.
We liked it for: fresh, modern design and fresh, timeless sea
views.
But: the walk to the village and beach is steep, if short.
The details: from £276 for a week in the two-person Sail
Loft, rising to £3,113 for a summer week in the 14-man Admiral’s House. No
pets. Call Coastal Cottages of Pembrokeshire on 01437 765765 or visit
www.villagesofdistinction.co.uk.
AS
10. Crofftau, Powys
Sleeps 8 (four doubles)
This brilliant barn conversion brings thickly spread style and comfort to a
wonderfully remote spot. The owners have done plenty to preserve the
ori-ginal bucolic character, including arrow-slit windows and oak beams, but
they’ve added underfloor heating, spring-fed baths, power showers, even a
working jukebox. The garden has a stunning view up the valley into the bosom
of the Brecon Beacons National Park. Love the outdoor life? You’ll adore
this — pony trekking, climbing and even kite-feeding are all nearby. Brecon
is three miles away; Hay-on-Wye is 15.
We liked it for: its cracking location and great views — even
from some of the beds.
But: it’s a three-mile drive to the nearest pub.
The details: a week starts at £560, with Friday-Monday from
£480. “Sensible” pets allowed. Call Brecon Beacons Holiday Cottages on 01874
676446 or visit www.breconcottages.com.
AS
11. The Gothic Temple, Buckinghamshire
Sleeps 4 (two doubles)
A circular temple built in 1741, this is one of several archi- tectural
follies and fripperies scattered among the archetypal English grounds of
Stowe School. It has spiral staircases and an amazing painted and vaulted
ceiling, but the furniture is basic (try getting a wardrobe to fit in a
circular room). That’s okay — direct your steps toward the rooftop
belvedere, from which the views are stunning. You’re looking over the
grounds of Stowe, though with sheep-nibbled pasture all around, you’d
scarcely know it. To complete the idyll, guests sometimes get to use school
facilities, including the pool and tennis courts.
We liked it for: the feeling that you’ve been cast into a
Constable landscape.
But: the kitchen and bathroom are strictly no-frills; and the
gardens are often open to the public, which means people wandering past your
door.
The details: a week starts at £598, four nights at £287. Dogs
are welcome. Call the Landmark Trust on 01628 825925 or visit
www.landmarktrust.org.uk.
Rob Ryan
12 The Martello Tower, Suffolk
Sleeps 4 (two twins)
It took nearly a million bricks to build Aldeburgh’s Martello Tower, and it’s
still as ugly as sin. But then aesthetics are hardly the point of the place.
This is the most northerly of a string of forts built to keep Napoleon at
bay, and its squat walls, massively thick, were built for one thing only: to
stop French cannonballs. The tower’s own guns lived on the roof, and it is
here, on a clear day, that it really comes into its own: surrounded by
shingle, yards from the sea, with Aldeburgh a short walk away. There can be
few better sunbeds in all Suffolk.
The amenities have improved since the days of the garrison, but they’re still
pretty basic (there’s a shower, but no bath). Views from the vaulted rooms
are fantastic, however — you can settle by the sitting-room window and watch
the waves breaking at your feet. Down the track lies Aldeburgh sailing club,
and many visitors bring dinghies. There are concerts at Snape Maltings, RSPB
reserves at Orford and Minsmere, and sandy beaches at Southwold.
We liked it for: eating fish and chips on the roof terrace,
with the stars overhead and the noise of the sea below.
But: tourists tend to peer through the sitting-room window
(and get a shock when they realise you’re inside).
The details: three nights from £484, a week from £531-
£1,195. Dogs welcome. Contact the Landmark Trust (see above).
Sean Newsom
13. Goddards, Surrey
Sleeps 12 (one double, three twins and four singles)
A Lutyens house, in Surrey! Hard to believe a place of this pedigree, so close
to London, is available for rent. One of Lutyens’s early commissions, it is
at Abinger Common, and was built as “a Home of Rest to which ladies of small
means might repair for a holiday”. These days, its big rooms and
labyrinthine layout are perfect for house parties of every hue. There’s no
television, which is normal for Landmark Trust properties, but who needs one
when there’s a big kitchen, a garden, a dining hall and ... wait for it ...
a proper, old-fashioned skittle alley? Beyond the gates is a surprising
patch of Surrey countryside, much of it defended by the National Trust. The
North Downs Way passes nearby, and the stately homes of Polesden Lacey and
Hatchlands Park are both within easy day-tripping distance.
We liked it for: the exquisite Arts and Crafts architecture —
but what really bowled us over was the skittle alley.
But: part of the garden and the ground floor are open to the
public on Wednesday afternoons.
The details: a week starts at £1,972, a three-night weekend
at £1,386, Dogs are allowed. Contact the Landmark Trust (see above).
SN
14. Riverside House, Devon
Sleeps 10 (three doubles and four singles)
This chocolate-box thatched house is in Tuckenhay, deep in the South Hams,
with Bow Creek, a tributary of the River Dart, lapping languidly upon a
slipway outside the door. It’s an excellent place for anyone toying with the
idea of giving it all up for a new career in Romantic poetry or
impressionist painting. The house is a home for part of the year, so
paintings, portraits and knick-knacks add personal cosiness. It even has a
piano and a rocking horse. Two of the bedrooms have French windows and iron
balconies overhanging the river, while the roof room, with two singles and
bunks, is perfect for packing away the kids. Up the creek lies the
picture-perfect village of Ashprington, from where it’s a magnificent
two-hour walk to Totnes,with its Georgian buildings and new-age shops.
We liked it for: homeliness and the deep Devonian setting.
But: it can feel pretty cut off out of season.
The details: a week starts at £517, a weekend from £362. No
pets. Call Toad Hall Cottages on 0870 077 7345 or visit
www.toadhallcottages.com.
Jonathan Futrell
15. The Anchorage, Cornwall
Sleeps 6 (three doubles)
This is the James Bond of apartments, built in 1989 and encased behind a wall
of glass, with exceptional views of Falmouth harbour, the naval dockyard,
the marinas and the countryside beyond. The cool blues and whites of the
interior may be a bit “off-the-shelf maritime”, more hotel than home, but
you can forgive it everything for the 100ft wrap-around balcony — accessed
straight from the vast sitting room and all three bedrooms. The kitchen is
classy, and there’s a widescreen satellite television. Highlights of
Falmouth town centre, with its eclectic mix of antique/bric-a-brac and
maritime shops, include the National Maritime Museum Cornwall; and ferries
go to Flushing, Truro and St Mawes.
We liked it for: that view! And Falmouth is a proper
knockabout Cornish port, with good pubs and genuine characters.
But: there’s no garden, so sunbathing is side by side on the
narrow balcony.
The details: a week starts at £633. No pets. Call Classic
Cottages on 01326 555555 or visit www.classic.co.uk.
JF
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